The Legend of Captain Dick "Them's My Toes" Barter and Fannette Island, Lake Tahoe

The tourist had been to Lake Tahoe in the past, but she had to repeat the words she had said on her last visit.

“I love this place. It’s so beautiful,” she said breathlessly.

We nodded in agreement. There were twenty tourists lined up along the Emerald Bay overlook, and at the same time, we were gazing at Fannette Island and admiring it from the distance. Muffled conversations identified where we were from. Most of us were Americans, but if you listened carefully, you could hear the compliments in foreign languages which included German, French, and Japanese. In an adjoining parking lot, you could hear the slamming of car doors and footsteps. Other people were going to join us and enjoy the view. And we were all armed with our cameras.

Emerald Bay in Lake Tahoe is the most photographed location found in this paradise. The only island found in the lake is Fannette Island. The granite island was formed thousands of years ago when glaciers formed Emerald Bay. Whether you view the island from the overlook or a paddleboat on the water, you’ll see that the granite is covered with trees and brush.

For over 100 years, Fannette Island has been known as Croquette, Baranoff, Dead Man’s, and Emerald Isle. For 10 years, it was Hermit Island and home to Captain Dick “Them’s My Toes” Barter. The old English sailor was a caretaker for the only residence on the island at the time and was known as an eccentric gentleman who rowed his boat to Tahoe City saloons for his favorite whiskey. Since he lived alone on the shores of the island and seldom saw anyone for weeks or months, and was known as Fannette’s resident hermit.

In 1870, Captain Barter was rowing the 16 miles back from Tahoe City to Fannette Island when a storm hit. Although his boat flipped over, Barter was able to hang onto the Nancy and return to his home. Unfortunately for Captain Barter, he became ill from the water’s cold and had to amputate some of his toes due to gangrene. He earned the nickname, “Them’s My Toes” because he had saved those amputated toes and would show them to anyone who would listen to his story.

This near-death incident caused Barter to plan for his death. After this maritime accident, he built a tomb for himself. Located on the rocky ground in the middle of Fannette Island, Barter built a miniature Gothic chapel over the tomb and topped it with a cross. While on trips to Tahoe City drinking establishments, Captain Barter informed friends and acquaintances that this is where he wanted to be buried.

In 1873, Captain Dick “Them’s My Toes” Barter did not get his wish for a burial on Fannette Island. While rowing the 16 miles back to the island from Tahoe City, he came across another storm. The following day, rescuers found the remains of his boat and one of his oars. It was believed that the body of Captain Barter sank 1,400 feet into the depths of Emerald Bay and was never recovered.

Several months later, the other oar washed up on Fannette Island, and it is believed that Captain Barter had finally released the remaining oar from his watery grave. The oar was in good condition, and it is believed that the 66-year-old seaman had planned to take the oar with him into the afterlife or to notify his friends that he was gone.

It is said that the ghost of Captain Dick Barter continues to haunt his beloved island. When a mist rises above Emerald Bay, it is believed that Captain Barter also rises from the lake’s waters. He is seen walking towards the middle of the island in search for the rocky tomb that he had built for himself during his life as the Hermit of Fannette Island.

A tea house, built and used by the owner of the nearby Vikingholm Castle, remains at the top of the island and can be reached by a well-worn trail that is hidden from the water's view. It is said that the owner of the mansion brought guests to the tea house regularly for afternoon tea. These guests were taken to the island by boat and carried to the tea house by servants.

Today, these two landmarks are owned by the State of California as part of its parks system and open to the public. You can visit Fannette Island by boat. The trail remains for hikers and anyone willing to explore.